Finger Training Question

Posted: 02-11-2014

This is Casey from the clinic you put on at Focus Climbing Center recently. I was trying to put together my workout plan for the week but I couldn’t think of a lot of good finger exercises other than hanging on the finger board and good posture exercises. I was hopin you could give me a few ideas for these.

Casey Kongpanickul

The short answer is that you should focus on the following fingerboard principles:

train fingerboard 2x/week
7-10 hangs/workout (build over time)
15-25” duration 2-arm hangs
hang with fresh fingers (don’t climb too much beforehand)
train the following hand positions in the following order: full crimp, half crimp, cling grip, pockets, slopers. (this order helps prevent injury)

Rest: at least 3’ between hangs

You can integrated fingerboard into the sport-specific strength training set that I taught you guys in the following structure:

Fingerboard hang (always start with finger hangs to avoid injuries)
postural exercise
Rest (repeat process)

Once you have 4-6 weeks of lower intensity/longer duration hangs to learn proper technique and educate the joints for injury prevention, you will want to progress to higher intensity, shorter finger board hangs.